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Circuit Board was clicking and refrigerator was not working properly
narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.
diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!! I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold. Hope this helps God Bless Captain Scott Cousins
deep freeze defrosting and frig. getting warm shortly after stoped cooling completley
Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.
Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise
Ice and water dispensers were not working, Control board was making a clicking noise.
Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.
Freezer and refrigerator would get warm, followed by it getting cold again, doing this numerous times throughout the day.
After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!
Lights on water dispencer went out. Then both sides of fridge went out. Wouldn't cool or freeze. Only lights in fridge would work.
Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.
Ice/Water dispenser would not work and refrigerator stopped cooling
The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.
I took the 3 screws off the cover that is in the back of the appliance, unpluged the plugs that attached to the circuit board pressed the 4 plastic pins that held the old board. Then I snapped the new board in place and pluged the plugs back into the new board. They will only go on one way so you cannot get the plug in the wrong place, job done appliance works fine. Thanks
the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'
I found this failure at midnight, was able to determine loss of voltage at J2 Pin 3 to 4, causing the fan failure. Jumpering with a staple from Pin 5 to 4 allowed the evap fan to run from the condensor fan supply for the few days waiting for the part. Not pretty, but it saved the food. Running like that forced the evap fan to high speed, so I had to set the thermostats lower (higher temp)
1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear. 2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board 3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..
