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Clicking sound. Ice maker would not work and trip the braker if you tries to use it.
1. Pulled refrigerator out 2. Unpluged the refrigerator 3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on. 4. Removed Board ASM Main Control. 5. Unpluged Connector's. 6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control. 7. Put cover back on. 8. Pluged refrigerator back in. 9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.
Unplug the refrigerator from the wall plug and take the plate off of the circuit board in the back of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the board in place. Remove the board by pinching the little white pins holding the board inplace. Disconnect the wires from the circuit board and install the new board in its place. Notice the wire prongs so that they are connected the same as they were on the previous board. Replace the screws that hold the cover. Plug it in. If it does not turn on, remove the plug from the wall and re insert it. The new board has to reset itself.
I was moving from one state to the other and when I tried to put the refrigerator back together the glass broke in my hands. So I had to order a replacement.
All I did was take it out of the box and place it in place.
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
Periodic and intermittent "clicking," during which the lights on the temp control unit would go out. When clicking stopped and lights returned, temp control unit was not accepting adjustments in temp
Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
Control panel on the front door became was dead. Replace the Main control board was de solution suggested by a Technician.
I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partselect I have saved a bunch of money.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Ice and water dispensers were not working, Control board was making a clicking noise.
Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.
