Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The door latch was broken from opening the door before the end of cycle release.
First I tried to unscrew the two screws holding the latch with a phillips screwdriver. When it wanted to slip, I took a closer look at the screw heads and saw they were square drive. I got the proper tool and removed the screws, replaced the latch and replaced the screws in a few minutes.
(This is reply #2 of 2) After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws. After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. Theyt froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole. Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...
Washer was bouncing and emitted a banging noise only when on high speed spin
I watched the videos and replaced the shocks and suspension springs. This worked to stop the unit bouncing completely and cut the banging noise in half. Further diagnosis revealed a damaged drum and outer shell. The repair itself was very simple and didn't require special tools or skills. There is a tricky shock absorber locking pin on the right shock bottom position. There is a control box of some sort that prevents the complete removal of the pin without breaking it. On install, I simply pushed the pin through from the front. Ultimately, I ended up replacing the unit. However, I found the site to be extremely helpful. Great service.
The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.
Ordered this part to replace a drain hose that had been cut short on the washer. Installation was straight-forward. Removed the two front screws to access the cabinet. Locate the drain hose and remove with a pair of pliers. Install the new part and attach the clamp with the pliers just like removal. Took about 15 minutes.
the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.
Spring broke and front loading washer made loud noise when it went into spin cycle.
Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.
Washer woild not spin out left clothes sopping wet
It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!
It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.
"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.
I didn't know how to get the part still in the washer slot from which the timer knob broke off. Thanks to other people documenting on how to do it, I was able to use pliers to unscrew the anchor part and easily replace it following their directions. Took less than 2 minutes.