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BOUGHT NEW ICEMAKER TOOK TWO SCREWS OUT, UNPLUGGED THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. REMOVED OLD ICEMAKER, PUT TWO SCREWS BACK INTO REFRIGERATOR(DON'T SCREW ALL THE WAY IN AS THE NEW ICE MAKER WILL FIT ON. HOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND ADAPTER (THAT COMES WITH IT). PUT THE DRAIN TUBE IN ITS SPOT, HOOK ICE MAKER ONTO THE TWO SCREWS TIGHTEN EM DOWN. I DID THIS RIGHT BEFORE I WENT TO A BIRTHDAY DINNER WITH MY HUSBAND, WAS ALREADY DRESSED AND READY TO GO AND I TOLD HIM ILL PUT IT IN SO WE CAN HAVE ICE WHEN WE RETURN. ENDED UP BEING A SURPRISE PARTY FOR ME AND WHEN WE RETURNED WE HAD ICE. IT WAS SO EASY EVEN A GIRL CAN DO IT!!
Freezer was freezing but refridgerator was warm. Checked fan and it was not turning.
Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
watched the video (VERY helpful) and then removed the old icemaker and replaced it with the new one. Difficult only because of the small working space in the side by side freezer plus you can't see what you're doing when you tighten the screws. Working like a charm now.
Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)
Unscrewed (loosen) screws lifted unit out unplugged electrical connection. plugged in unit hung on screws tightened screws and had ice in less then 1 hour. Rick
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works
