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Erratic light.
Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.
The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.
1. turn off the refrigerator using the inside temp dial 2. take all food out of the refrigerator door 3. pull up the gasket along the door frame and loosen all the screws starting with the bottom and the sides 4. loosen the screws underneath the gasket on the top of the door (be ready to lower the door frame when you loosen the last screw!) 5. pull the old gasket off the door frame 6. put the door frame on the floor insulation side up 7. lay the new gasket out on the floor and use a blow dryer to heat the new gasket to make it flexible 8. put the new gasket on the frame by fitting the crease of the gasket over the edge of the frame making sure that the magnet side of the new gasket is facing the refrigerator when the frame is re-attached 9. apply RTV Silicone sealant along the entire lip of the gasket (on the insulation side of the frame) and press the gasket to the frame to form a bond ( I got a tube of RTV silicone at Wal-Mart in the automotive dept. near the motor oils) 10. wait 5-10 minutes to let the silicone bond to the frame 11. lift the frame up and re-attach to the door starting with the top middle screw first, the side middle screws next, the bottom middle screw last (you may want to get a second person to help hold the frame while you are attaching these initial screws) 12. go back and re-attach all remaining screws 13. close the refrigerator door and check for a good seal all along the gasket 14. your done!
Note: you may want to close the refrigerator door and block it with a chair to keep in some cold air after you remove the frame to install the new gasket
I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok. The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich. I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.
I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.
Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.
I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.
Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Both the Freezer and Refrigerator Seals were defeated.
You lift the old seal and unscrew the nut, being careful not to break the plastic holding the seal down, do not remove the screw the whole way. If you take your time and be methodic it is not difficult, just time consuming. Remove the old seal and start putting the new seal in. I would advise finger tightening the screws every 12 inches or so as you go. Then go back and tighten each side as you complete it.
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
The defrost timer is located under the freezer side behind the lower plastic cover. Very simple, just 2 screws and a plug, and your done.
The thermostat requires removing the lower drawers in the freezer and unscrew the back side of the rails and let them hang over to get access to the lower cover on the back of the freezer. Once the panel is off you will be able to see the thermostat. From there you just remove the thermostat from the clip, cut the 2 wires, splice in the new thermostat and re install using the new clip and your done!!
This was my first time and it was really simple. I had a local repair shop quote me $375.00 . I did it myself for under 50.00 shipped to my door..