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The interior refrigerator panel was cracked
There were about 30 or so hex head screws holding the interior panel to the door; best to use a power hex head driver. Removed the gasket from the old panel, put the gasket on the new one and reversed the process (there were about a dozen less screw holes on the new panel). Went without a single hitch in less than an hour!
Made sure water was going into valve, shut off water to valve, removed it. removed two connections, replaced with new valve, Walla, off & running. Incidentally, rec'd new valve much quicker than I ever expected.
End of door shelves broke & were held on by duct tape for a long time
Since the end caps were already broken I just took them out & put the new ones in. Total time to do this was less than 5 minutes. Great parts, great prices & super fast shipping
Replace the gasket around the freezer door ($122.00 NEW GASKET)
Moved the old gasket aside to gain access to retaining screws in top freezer door. The new seal in the container we received was twisted, so laid it flat and used a hair dryer (as you advised) to regain the proper shape. Did everything possible, to align the gasket. Opened the freezer door to remove the retaining screws, began to reinstall the new gasket. The top came down both sides well. Attempted to install screws across the bottom, the gasket was so twisted would not conform back into the retaining frame on the bottom of the door. Therefore, it fits poorly. No proper seal. Sincerely, Jesse & Mary(also, the bottom of the freezer door plastic form was very brittle, broke where the screws fit....so we had to make a piece formed like a strip to re-enforce the areas that 'cracked' off so as the screws could align the bottom areas.
The plastic ends that held the shelf on broke off, once my new ends came in the mail I had to attach them to the metal bar that holds the condiments in the door's shelf. To do this I had to hammer the ends of the shelf a little to get the caps to fit. Once they were on I put the ends of the caps into the holes on the door and had to push down with some force to get them to snap in. Very easy once I realized I had to push harder than I expected to get them to snap in. It's great to have my shelf back!
Snapped the end caps onto the existing shelf, and eased the assembly into the door slots. Light tapping with a hammer was required to fully seat the assembly into the door. All in all, a straightforward and simple repair.
Refrigerator started frosting up and running all the time.I'd defrost it and it would frost up again in about a week.The timer seems to be work so I just guest it mite be the Defrost Thermostat.I removed the duck in the center and back panel in the freezer compartment defrosted it and switched Thermostats and replaced panel and duck, going to lower compartment of the refrigerator.So far it seems to be working a little more time while tell.
It was very easy. Pulled off the old valve and replaced with the new one and it started making ice right away. There are a couple of issues you need to be aware of that I am watching closely now. The old valve was a 15 watt valve. The one they sent me is a 35 watt valve. It really pressures the water into the ice maker. So much so I am getting a little leaking from the overflow. Its working so well and powering the water in so fast it starts to leak a little due to being to full. When I ordered the part, no where did it show the wattage of the valve so be careful. It works great but will have to keep an eye on it so it does not overflow.
