The top crisper drawer frame was cracked, it secures the glass top also.
Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.
Support stude for both vegetable crispers broken off
Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.
None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.
One arm on the plastic bin or tray cracked and broke.
This was a replacement part, a simple snap in. What really impressed me was the PartSelect web site and the ease of locating the part and making sure it was the right one. Finally, the price beat out all the others. Since this tray looked like others on the same unit, I needed the details, the different view angles and dimensions to make sure it was correct. No other web site was even close in ease of use or in providing such details. I know I won't waste my time at PartSelect and I've always gotten the right part at the best price.
Water was leaking from the valve/pump for the icemaker
Remove the screws that hold the old valve to the side of the refrigerator. Next, detach each plastic tube and attach that tube to the same place on the new valve, and repeat (there are many valves). Afterward, I realized that many of the plastic tubes had become brittle and had mineral deposits, so I bought additional tubing for ice makers and replaced each tube, one at a time.
After a power outage my refrigerator went warm & the freezer was cool.
I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.
Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.
On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.
Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..
Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.
Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.
In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!
Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.
Icemaker worked sporadically, infrequently, not at all
Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.
Turn off ice maker Slide wire harness shield off connector Disconnected harness Loosened 2 wall screws Remove old ice maker Installed new one reversing process