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Fridge leaked water all over my kitchen
I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!
Defrost terminator (Thermostat) Was Stuck Open, Not Allowing Defrost, Heat Gun or Hair Dryer
PURCHASE: Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available, it is highly recommended that the new part be tested: You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one very easily per instructions found on line. TEST RESULTS- a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open". b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT): A) Prep Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm. Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily. Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make re-installing the many components easier. Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers) 1) ) Upper Drawer: a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are on each side, toward the rear of the drawer. b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4". c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a 5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver. d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer. Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs. e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly to clear the track. f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door *Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap. a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor. b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs. c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling is required. Repeat on the other side. d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer. 1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger. It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket. 2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out. 3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off) 1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold. 2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside. 3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way. 4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall) 1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free. 2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover & thread the thermistor free. 3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall 1) Remove all visible hex head screws. 2) The back wall can now be removed. 3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer. Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner. The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !
The repair was not it. It was the customer service by the ladys that answered the phone. Both of them were the same as to give me a perpaid return shipping label and my money back. It was like being at the return desk at W.M. and not like at some of the on line service I have come to know...
As it turns out when i pulled the drawer out and then the door holder i discovered that there was a big piece of material that was suppose to be around the water line that was causing the problem. The old drawer holder was not the problem so the new piece was not needed. All is well.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Freezer was frosting over , wouldn't defrost , No ice cubes !!! popsicles melting .
Repair man wanted a 130.00 service charge plus parts , With the help of YouTube we did the repairs inhouse , couldn't believe it was that easy. Refrigerator is working like a new one ,our maintenance crew has ice cubes were all happy !
Broken hinge bearing, refrigerator door, top bearing
1. Using Philips head screwdriver, remove plastic hinge cover on top of refrigerator door. 2. Remove bolts using socket wrench. 3. Lift door from bottom hinge. 4. With Philips head screwdriver remove screw holding bearing in place on bottom of door. 5. Remove old bearing. 6. Install new bearing. 7. Replace fridge door using reverse steps. 8. Enjoy your handi-work.
