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Ignition not working
1 - I unplugged the oven/ stove connection. 2 - Removed 2 screws and lifted it out the floor of the oven. 3 - Removed the nut holding down the flame guard and lifted it out. 4 - Removed 2 screes that held igniter in place. 5 - cut the wires for igniter. 6 - Stripped new wires with the nuts connector. 7 - Installed new igniter with 2 screws. 8 - Put it all back together step 3 & 2. 9 - Plugged in the oven/stove connection. 10 - Turn on the oven and works perfectly. 11 - My wife and daughter happy and ready to bake.
Oven wouldn't heat , glow from bottom, and strong smell of gas
First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two screws on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.
I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.
I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,
Oven was slow to light, strong gas smell, long time to reach set temperature
Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.
I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.
In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.
The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.
Unplug electicity, Take out all inside pans, unscrew the burner arm, disconnect white power wires to the igniter. remover gas buner, detach the igniter and attach the new igniter to the burner arm. re assemble the burner arm, connenct the white wires to the white wires from the oven just below the igniter. Put all pans and guards back in oven, plug in and test.
First I removed the oven door screws, then I removed the outer handle and then there were 2 more sets of screws that actually held 2 panes of glass onto the door.
Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.
Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.
With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.
The igniter would glow but the gas would not come on.
I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.
The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.
