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ice maker would not dispense cubes, stuck on crushed ice
turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck
Icemaker was producing hollow ice due to water was free flowing out the water dispenser during fill time for icemaker.
Removed old water valve w/ screwdriver, cut threads off old hose (as they just plug straight into new valve) & pushed hoses into new water valve. Solved both problems!!!!
Old valve comes out with 2 screws, water lines removed and reinstalled on new valve just as they came off the old valve. Entire job took less than 10 minutes. Very easy replacement.
The part arrived in about 2 days! The right side support that is attached to the inside wall of the refridgerator, that holds the crisper guide, broke apart and would not support the crisper. We took everything off of that shelf and took out the crisper and the glass that is on the shelf. We then carefully pried the support from the interior wall (it was a slow tedious move to be sure we did not damage the wall of the fridge). We made sure all of the pieces were out and snapped the new one into place. For some reason the old one did not want to come out. It broke into many pieces and we carefully pulled all of the little pieces out of the notches
I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!
Defrost terminator (Thermostat) Was Stuck Open, Not Allowing Defrost, Heat Gun or Hair Dryer
PURCHASE: Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available, it is highly recommended that the new part be tested: You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one very easily per instructions found on line. TEST RESULTS- a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open". b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT): A) Prep Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm. Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily. Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make re-installing the many components easier. Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers) 1) ) Upper Drawer: a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are on each side, toward the rear of the drawer. b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4". c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a 5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver. d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer. Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs. e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly to clear the track. f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door *Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap. a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor. b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs. c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling is required. Repeat on the other side. d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer. 1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger. It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket. 2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out. 3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off) 1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold. 2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside. 3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way. 4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall) 1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free. 2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover & thread the thermistor free. 3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall 1) Remove all visible hex head screws. 2) The back wall can now be removed. 3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer. Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner. The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
Incorrectly! There are two sizes of door bins and they are not interchangeable. I ordered the wrong one, only to discover that door bin was also cracked. I now have two new door bins. All's well that ends well...they are really easy to instal, but if not the correct one, it will fall off!
Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !
As it turns out when i pulled the drawer out and then the door holder i discovered that there was a big piece of material that was suppose to be around the water line that was causing the problem. The old drawer holder was not the problem so the new piece was not needed. All is well.
The repair was not it. It was the customer service by the ladys that answered the phone. Both of them were the same as to give me a perpaid return shipping label and my money back. It was like being at the return desk at W.M. and not like at some of the on line service I have come to know...
