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FEZ831CFS0 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the FEZ831CFS0
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Black lines and small tears
Previous comments on line were so helpful.

My husband and son took the dryer apart by removing the top in order to get to the drum. Part of silver rim that the Drum Glide is attached to was broken,it had been cut somehow. They had to soder it back in place so they could attach the Drum Glide and so far it's working.

Felt- I just ordered one with the adhesive and removed the damaged section used a wire brush, applied the adhesive ( which was more than enough) waited a few minutes for the adhesive to set, applied the felt, attached binder clips to hold it in place while working on the Drum Glide. Really easy.
Parts Used:
Lower Front Felt Seal with Adhesive Drum Glide - White
  • Robin from Sewaren, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noisy operation - "Chugged" during operation.
With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Peter from Lynnwood, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Pump motor made humming noise and wouldn't drain water from tub.
Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • Matthew from Oakford, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Squeaky drum until drum would not turn.
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Rear Drum Bearing Kit Drum Support Bearing Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Doug from ODESSA, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer heater broken
Removed top cover.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket Heater Assembly Drum Support Bearing
  • Johnny from PINEBLUFF, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Leaking through the main tub seal
-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
-Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)
Parts Used:
Tub Seal Assembly
  • Rob from DACULA, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Leveling Leg Broken
The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.
Parts Used:
Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg
  • Brian from Rochester, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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no filter
filter inalled
Parts Used:
Dryer Lint Screen
  • Luis from La Jolla, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Washer tub was not spinning
Smelled burning rubber, checked belt. Belt was cracked and worn out. Easy repair. Removed front of the machine held together with two screws at the bottom of the unit. Removed top cover of machine (the part with the lid). It just pops off. Pushed tensioner wheel in and took off old belt. Putting new belt on was super easy. Working like a champ now. $20 total with shipping. Not too bad to save a washing machine.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • josef from Nashville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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clothes were getting stuck
after numerous holes put in my families clothes i looked on line and found "partselect.com". i ordered the front drum glide after seeing a similar story about the clothes being torn and getting caught and my family and i have our new dryer back!! yeah :<)
Parts Used:
Drum Glide - White
  • robert from lake worth, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Front drum guidesnubber ring was worn out
removed the top of dryer, pulled front panel back from drum and installed snubber(Front Drum guide).
Parts Used:
Drum Glide - White
  • Alan from Emporia, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer drive belt came off dryer drum several times.
Stud was coming off the motor cradle- bad swedge at the factory, Belt tensioner went on stud.

Removed small access panel in back. Remove tensioner and set to left. Remove inner and outer panels from the front of the laundry center to expose exhaust duct and blower. Loosen control panel and remove, disengaging four keyed plugs. Remove lint screen. Loosen two screws inside dryer to disengage exhaust duct and remove, Unscrew aproximately six screws and remove front half of blower. Remove clip from blower shaft, and cautiously pry the blower wheel off the shaft (this is the touchiest part of the job. Some force is necessary). Remove the back half of the blower housing by unscrewing the three screws exposed by the wheel (access through the front) and the standoff by the heat/moisture sensor (access through the back).

You have now exposed the motor. It is held on to the cradle with two clips. Remove the clips by putting your thumb on the clip above the hook and squeeaing while prying the end of the clip off with a screw driver. One clip is accessed through the back and one through the front. When the motor is loose unscrew the two screws through the back panel that keep the cradle in place. Pull it back and remove it, while holding the motor up.

Installation is the reverse. Make sure the new part matches the old part exactly. Make sure that the soft bushings on the motor are centered on the cradle before you clip it in place.
Parts Used:
CRADLE & STUD
  • David from Bayonne, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Broken Knob
I pulled off the old knob and replaced it with the new one. The part was very easy to find on your web site. Thank you
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Gary from Tyngsborough, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Lound noise inside dryer
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Joseph from little Egg Harbour, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Loud Squealing
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • William from Hudson Falls, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the FEZ831CFS0
106 - 120 of 407