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oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure. Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven. Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray. 2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve. 3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter. 4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers). 5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector). 6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape. 7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation. 8. Removed coat hanger when got through. 9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws. 10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve. 11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
Remove door. Disconnect power supply from the range.Remove shelves.Remove burner and disconnect power from igniter.Remove bad igniter and replace with new one,reconnect igniter to power supply. Replace burner and all parts that were removed.Re- connect appliance to power source. Range is ready to be used.
Replaced the ceramic glow ignitor by removeing the two screws holding it to the mounting bracket. Gas and electric were tturned off. Unplugged the ignitor from rear of oven. Installed new switch in the same way and if worked perfect. Part was ordered online for $48. I saved one hundred dollars by doing it myself. My outdoor grill was harder than this.
I am a novice at this, so before I did anything I researched this site and made sure to read the installation directions that came with the part.
First I removed the oven racks, the bottom cover (one screw in front and two back latches by moving them towards me) and the fire cover underneath that. Next I disconnected the electrical plug in the back. Then I removed the defective part by unscrewing 2 back panel screws and 1 on the side of the igniter itself. Now, in connecting the new igniter I cut the connector off of the old one and wire nut connected it to the new one. I did check the connectors and cleaned them by simply plugging/ unplugging them a few times. Next, The trickiest thing about installing the new igniter was pushing the wires all the way to the back of the oven. I took care and time in this to insure that the connection was well insulated from the heat and then plugged the hole with the insulation material supplied. Next I recconected the fire cover and turned it on. Worked great! Put everything back together, plugged it in and Voila! Like new.