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Glass- top range had two burners that would not regulate. Burners went to HIGH when dial was set on any setting, even low.
Replaced switches. Dual power switch had been updated and didn’t match original part but there were accurate instructions in package to allow correct wiring easily. Good job Parts Select.
With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.
The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.
The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.
Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.
Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.
Disconnect electric at panel box. Pull oven out. Remove 5 screws from rear panel. Pull off the 2 clips at the tips of the old element which is located about 2/3 down the back side of the oven. Remove broken element from inside the oven and slide new element in place. Push 2 clips firmly on the ends of the new element. Replace back cover. Turn power on. Test oven. Slide oven back in place.
First, UNPLUG OVEN. Then, remove oven door and place stove on work bench! JUST KIDDING!! Honestly, the repair would be easy if that were possible.The hardest part is kneeling, standing, hunching over, twisting your body holding flashlight in your mouth, etc...THEN, trying to re-attach wires screws etc. The repair is straight forward. unscrew all screws holding element in, pull element out about 6 inches, detach wires, and re-attach. Simple right? Maybe if you're 1 foot 2 inches tall or have 6 foot arms
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
Replace Oven light socket and light bulb in kitchen Range
1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel 2) Slide out Range from wall 3) Unplug Range 4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket 5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb 6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard. 7) Place new socket into mounting flange 8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back. 9) Screw in new light bulb from front 10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place 11) Replace back panel 11) Plug in range 12) Slide range back to original position 13) Turn on power Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!
