Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The Water Dispensor Tubing Had Become Brittle And Broke .
Removed the face plate. Removed a few screws and unpluged a few electrical connectors and pulled apart. Removed the holding bracket and clear tubing from door. Cut new tubing at an angle to push through conduit. Reinstalled new bracket and re-installed electrical connectors. Snapped face trim on and bleed air out of system. . Water ran great.
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket 2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge 3. Have someone hold the frige door in place 4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose 5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge. 6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam" 7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one. 8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place. 9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though. 10. Replace with new cam. 11. put door back on hinge 12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws 13. Reinstall plastic cover. 14. Voila, you're done
It's simple enough in theory: read the side of the box and follow the instructions. BUT you need to really push the knob in pretty hard (I am a girl, and my hand strength isn't that good). If you don't, when you turn the knob, the filter won't come out, then it's tougher. So: make sure the knob pops before you turn!
The compressor would shut down and not restart unless you tapped the temperature knob which i did for about 3 weeks before ordering this part
Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. Works great now and i have ice everyday :)
where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine
First I removed the three screws with a nut driver and then disconnected the wire plug from the old ice maker. I plugged in the new unit and re-installed the screws and instantly the unit started to work. I did have to adjust the water level on the unit ...just turn the small plastic knob (use a slotted screw driver) on the side of the unit counterclockwise to increase the water level (do not turn more than one full turn or you could damage the unit) . It works perfect and saved me lots of money!!
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!
water slowly leaking from fill tube- overflowing ice tray
unplugged fridge, turned off water supply, disconnected water supply line (towel to catch drainage). remove cardboard lower panel from back of fridge. remove 2 bolts holding existing water inlet valve assy to fridge. Disconnect 2 electric plugs from assy. water lines disconnect using push/pull method (mark where they go). If any water tube line has any surface imperfections trim off a small length of line using a razor knife (cut tubing perpendicular (or "square" )on the end. I had to remove small unused part from the new water inlet valve assy. Insert the 3 water lines to the correct spots: push them on,fully, give a tug to make sure they are connected fully. Reattach the 2 electrical plugs.Bolt the unit back in place. I connected the water & plugged it in, filled about 10 glasses of water and made sure an ice cycle ran, to check for leaks (none found). I cleaned off some of the dust on the back of the fridge, reattached the cardboard lower piece. and listened to the sweet sound of Ice filling, and not my wallet emptying to the service man!!
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
It was ridiculously easy. Push the button on the filter canister holder at the base of the refrigerator and the spring-loaded mechanism came out smoothly. I unplugged the old filter, took the cap off the new on and plugged it in. After reinserting the filter canister holder and locking it in place, I heard the whoosh of water once again moving through the filter. Very satisfying and very easy to do.
First checked to make sure the water reserve line inside fridge wasn't frozen (soaked coil at back of fridge in a container of warm water for 10 min). That seemed fine and icemaker was still working so assumed that portion of the water inlet valve feeding water line wasn't working. Video on PartSelect website showing how to replace the valve was spot on and gave me confidence to install myself. Part arrived within two days and installation was done in a snap exactly as shown in video. All the lines & wire harnesses fit perfectly, water & ice working great, and I couldn't be more pleased.
I removed both plastic knobs from assembly faceplate. Then I loosened the screws holding thermostat housing to upper cabinet of fridge. Following this step, I loosened the screws of the thermostat to remove it. Next was the removal of the plate and vent pieces holding the thermostat wire sleeve in place. After removal of thermostat from sleeve; all steps were reversed and unit was up and running normal (cooling) with no problems. "Ahh, it's nice to have cool again "
First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
Was very confused when the part sent out looked nothing like the one it would replace. There was a note in the package saying that this would replace it but I was doubtful. Suggest that it be made very clear that this is an upgraded part to replace a bad design.Had not problem once i checked the website and found this to be correct replacement part. I didn't have any problem with the order of the crusher blades as once I removed the shaft nut I slid all of the parts in order onto the awl. Then it was a simple matter of sliding them off of the awl onto the auger shaft. The new metal auger works much better than the plastic one it replaces.