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The Water Dispensor Tubing Had Become Brittle And Broke .
Removed the face plate. Removed a few screws and unpluged a few electrical connectors and pulled apart. Removed the holding bracket and clear tubing from door. Cut new tubing at an angle to push through conduit. Reinstalled new bracket and re-installed electrical connectors. Snapped face trim on and bleed air out of system. . Water ran great.
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket 2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge 3. Have someone hold the frige door in place 4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose 5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge. 6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam" 7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one. 8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place. 9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though. 10. Replace with new cam. 11. put door back on hinge 12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws 13. Reinstall plastic cover. 14. Voila, you're done
Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.
The compressor would shut down and not restart unless you tapped the temperature knob which i did for about 3 weeks before ordering this part
Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. Works great now and i have ice everyday :)
where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!
The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
first I backed off top two screws and removed bottom screw. unplugged wire harness. removed old icemaker. harness on new icemaker was the same. plugged in hung new icemaker on top two screws installed bottom screw. turned water on job complete and very easy. I was very satisfied with the whole process.
Original icemaker would only make 1 or 2 cycles in a 24 hour period
The repair was extremely easy; after turning off the water valve on the back of the refrigerator, I removed the 3 screws (using a short length nut driver due to the confined space) and unplugged the harness. I did not need to splice the harness on the original ice maker and I simply plugged it into the new ice maker, screwed the unit back on and turned the water back on. It's great to have plenty of ice without having to use the ancient ice trays.
My wife had overloaded the original plastic Pan-Crispr basket with too much cheese which caused the flange to break. The replacement basket from Partselect was an exact match and simply slid in.
I'll definitely come back to Partselect for accessories and parts.
I removed both plastic knobs from assembly faceplate. Then I loosened the screws holding thermostat housing to upper cabinet of fridge. Following this step, I loosened the screws of the thermostat to remove it. Next was the removal of the plate and vent pieces holding the thermostat wire sleeve in place. After removal of thermostat from sleeve; all steps were reversed and unit was up and running normal (cooling) with no problems. "Ahh, it's nice to have cool again "
First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!
Icemaker made a clicking noise then quit making ice
Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.
Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.