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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year! Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven. Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.
Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim. Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
front lift burner not working and surface light on with everything off
unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .
A section of the gasket came off the door. It was causing heat to escape.
Found the Model information under the bottom drawer. Googled GE Range and rubber, found this vendor. Amazing, the replacement gasket was exactly as the original. Took the old gasket off with needle nose pliers, there were small metal clamps that had to be pinched together. Once the old gasket was off, the new one practically installed itself. Woman Power!
Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.