The u tube instructions were exactly what is needed. I had to cut off the old plastic pipes. My pipe had threaded connectors. Pex push on connection is super easy. You don't really need a block of wood to cut it if you have a sharp utility blade. If if you are sure this is the problem this is a really easy fix. Steps 1 turn off water at wall unplug electric also 2. Disc line at valve on refrigerator 3. Remove 2 screws holding valve 4. Pull valve out and remove plastic hoses and electric connections pay attention to color of pipe and electric connection. Mine were color coded. Had to cut off thread connectors. Reattach in reverse order or do one at a time. Check for leaks.
Refrigerator wasn't "winterized" ..This is a summer home, the cold winter cracked the water valve
I put the new unit up to the old one to see exactly how it goes, took the 2 screws holding the unt off...Took the 3 water lines off with adjustable wrench, put back exactly the same way and it worked with no leaks
Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.
Following previous installation instructions was very useful. Would add that the nut driver needs to be 1/4 in and to release the water lines from the valve body, simply squeeze the blue ring toward the valve and pull on the water lines at the same time. Simple fix!
We had someone to come and look at it and we were told it was the solenoid valve. The repairman unstuck it for us and said when it does it again, he would have to order the part. We took it upon ourselves to order the part and DIY. We replaced the part that we were told was the problem and "guess what" it's still not fixed. It's still shooting out crushed ice. Will have to call repair guy back out here to see what we did wrong.
I read other suggestions trying isolate auger motor shaft with pliers while turning bar drive. needle nose pliers could hold the shaft. bar drive just would spin. so took the whole ice box assembly out (only 2 screws) and with a metal cutting blade used the sawzall to cut along the shaft. freed it up enough to then unscrew it from that point. Left handed threads by the way.
We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).
The switch prevented the door from closing about 5 years ago. So I just taped the switch down, and lived without a fridge light for the last 5 years. Painful! And wasteful (food spoiled because we couldn't see it.) Thought I was out of luck, assuming light switches were all the same, got fed up again, and pulled out old switch,,and searched the net for the part number, and just started calling the manufacturer. I got this website after no luck in calling, and took the step to order...and in no time, got it replaced, and we cam see now! It feels like we got a new fridge!