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Dispenser door would not open
Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled. Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.
Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.
Lower left corner of the door was leaking every so often.
I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.
First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,
Unit would only stay on if one was pushing the door
First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.
pulled out the old gasket, cleaned the area before pressing in the new gasket with my fingers ,I made sure to put it in the same way as the old one. You have no idea how happy I am that this solved the problem.
Two clips holding the adjustable shelf had broken off.
I didn't know how to put in the new one clips until I looked up a picture of them in place, on-line. Once I saw the picture, it was a matter of clipping the new ones in place.
Both door springs corroded and broke. Linkage connectors broke also.
After pulling dishwasher out both springs easily installed using plastic connectors on the bottom left and right sides. Pliars were used to stretch the springs. It took fifteen minutes at most.
I removed the inside door cover, unpluged the accuator, removed the two screws holding the dispenser latch in place. Replaced both the latch and rubber groumet. returned the door to normal operation and verified no leaks was present.
Dishwasher wouldn't start, no power on any setting
Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.
