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The pins on the soap dispenser somehow became disengaged and lost in a wash cycle.
It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.
Close door, turn on dishwasher, walk away. 5 to 10 min later dishwasher not running. Push in at the door latch and dishwasher would start back up.
Removed the inner door panel-Removed the black cowling covering the timer and wires. Removed the swicth assembly and installed new part. Reassembled dishwasher.
I checked the operation of the two switches. One switch did not click, when button was pushed, as cleanly as the other. There was a bit of delay and play in the button when depressed, even sticking a bit.
Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.
No Water caused soap to not dispense & no clean dishes.
I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.
turn off breaker turn off water supply line note wire color locations on notepad disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers) disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench) disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp) remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver) remove ground jumper from old valve remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers) clean open end of pipe ell (file) apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads install pipe ell on new valve reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation reinstall ground jumper install new valve assembly in dishwasher reconnect hose and hose clamp reconnect inlet line reconnect spade lugs turn on supply line, check for leaks turn on breaker start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow done!
Part did not come with corresponding securung hardware.
The replacement part was the perfect size but the threading on the terminal ends was increases to 1/2" v the 7/16" from the previous element. My first attempt was to find a similar type of part at the local hardware store(not a superstore)since I planned to replace the grommets anyway. After not having any success, I came home and modified the fasteners by slowly drilling out the id of the fasteners until they threaded properly. The time to replace after the drill out was less than 10 min and the ~$45.00 is significantly less than $450.00 for a new unit. If I would ask anything of part select, it would be to include fastening hardware as re-engineering of products is a continual process.
popped out the spray arm snap retainer that held in the upper spray arm and pushed the new snap retainer into the new upper spray arm to complete the job. I thought I must have done something wrong because it only took about a minute.
First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.
First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.
After checking this site for any clues I saw that others had the same problem and changed the door switch so I thought I would give it a shot.I removed the inner part of the door(plastic).It had about 8 screws.Then there was a plastic cover that covers the wiring that comes right out and there was the switch.There are really 2 switches that come with the latch.then take out one screw with the nut driver.Take the four wires off the old latch and install on the new latch.Then screw back into the door and put inside part of the door together.Close the door and turn on and away you go.I also turned off the power to play it safe.I was thinking of replacing the dishwasher cause it is 10 years old but now I can take my time and wait for a good deal.Thank you very much partselect.Also I ordered the part 12.00 Sunday nite and recieved it on Tuesday afternoon with no special shipping.Wow!
would not wash or pump water out. Made noise like a bearing was out on motor. Went to dealer and was told that the motor and pump assy was not available because the washer was too old (18 years) and if a part was found it would cost $205. He wanted to sell me a new washer for $215. I went home
Removed the 6 screws holding the pump and motor assy. Disconnected the two hoses and wiring connector. Removed the motor and pump, removed the pump parts to get down to the impeller. Removed the old impeller (one screw) and installed the new impeller. Put every thing back together and it worked fine. Every one is happy!
1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model) 2) Tipped it onto its back 3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver) 4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers) 5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring. 6) Removed broken link 7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door. 8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers. 9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.
This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.
First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.
The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe