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When door opened, microwave would turn on
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open." With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open. Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower. There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon. Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
Broken GE microwave door latch (Part number WB05X10007)
Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.
It was very easy to remove the old charcoal filter and insert the new charcoal filter(had done it before with with the replacement filter GE had included with the purchase).
Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.
Motor went out. Glass tray wouldn't rotate any longer
Removed the 6 screws that held the cover below my microwave. Unplugged the part, plugged in the new one and I was done. My part arrived from you just one day after I ordered it! It was my first microwave repair ever, and it couldn't have been easier.
Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.
Loud noise from the Microwave and the tray was not truning
I followed the directions on your web site. I removed the screws adn dropped the bottom tray, unplugged the drive motor, removed two screw, and replaced with the new motor. It only took about 15 minutes.
New unit, had to use inside vent, filter not included
I went to your site and looked up the schematic parts list and determined how to remove the grill and install the filter. I had the grill off and when the filter arrived I put it in, replaced grill and screws and then in about 20 min had the microwave installed on the wall and operating. By the way the part arrived about three days earlier than estimated. Thanks for your prompt response. You are on my favorites list for future appliance parts.
The turn table was making a terrible noise and wouldn't turn. I called a repair company and they told me it would be at least a hundred dollars to fix it.
I removed the screws that held the bottom in and then dropped it down to access the motor. I removed the 2 screws that held the motor in and unplugged it. I then plugged the new one in and reattached it with the 2 screws and put the bottom back on. It took me about 5 minutes to fix it for only $40.00.
I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!
