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Pump Motor not working
1, I shut off ac circuit breaker. 2.Shut off water supply valve. 3.disconnected water line from inlet valve. 4. disconnect the drainage hose. 5. have plenty of towels to mop up water. 6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub. 7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter. 8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope. 9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub. 10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.
It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp! Left some blood there.
Disconnected the power and hot water supply. Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws. Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side. Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off) Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil. Replaced the heater coil and nuts. Reversed the process above to install.
My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.
First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.
Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.
Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.
The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.
One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.
Poor seal on old gasket caused water to leak during dishwasher operation.
I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.
My 2 parts were delivered very quickly. We had been putting off the repair, mainly because any time you hire a capable repair man, the charge to "walk through the door"is very high. I actually thought about buying a new DW for this reason . . . Then I googleD PARTS, And was lucky to find PARTS SELECT. I was most impressed with the graph layout of the parts, which enables the buyer to actually measure the part being replaced to be sure the correct item is being ordered. The instructions were excellent, and this grandmother took care of the repair, easily.
Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.
Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.
Dishwasher's "clean" light just blinked - wouldn't run. Repairman came and found out problem and suggested I could fix it myself
Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Dishes were not cleaned properly, residue
I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.
Bent the plastic housing down holding the spinner. Slipped the top of clip in slot on top of housing. Attached spinner and bottom of clip by holding top clip and pushing bottom of clip in place. No tools were needed.