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Long time!
Well the repair was not bad the package came in real fast thank you very much. Doing the work was real hard took about an hour to do and then putting it on I do not think it stayed on good still using some duck tape to hold it and the top and bottom are real fat and will not sink on in. I do not know what to do or what I did wrong. I am kind of afraid to take it off because it might rip. Some of it ripped as I was putting it on too. Do you have any ideas of what I can do or what might be my problem? Thanks.
Easy repair - Don't over complicate it. 1) Flip up ice bar to stop making new ice. 2) Pull out the complete ice bin/tray. 3) shut freezer door while you work on the ice bin. 4) All you need to do is remove the 4 screws holding the ice bin holding tray to the front of the Ice cutting section in the front. 5) Screw drive can then be pulled forward to remove the old/broken white drive cap. Just replace the White Drive ring, put the drive screw back into the ice bin tray and re-install the 4 screws. 6) When re-inserting the bin, you may have to twist the screw drive slightly to re-align with the motor bracket in the back of the freezer. Suggestion: throw out old ice because if it is wet or slightly melted, when you put it back in the freezer the ice will freeze/clump together into a large ice clump; not cubes. Also dry out the ice bin so there is no water to freeze up or create a new jam when the ice bin now re-freezes.
This review would not be helpful if limited to this part. So I will describe the whole repair. The ice maker was first receiving too much water. This resulted in huge cubes and water dripping out of the ice maker compartment. I tried reducing the amount of water using the valve to the supply line. But then the ice maker stopped making ice. I jumped to the conclusion that the solenoid water valve needed to be replaced. The new valve was easily replaced, but no water was delivered to the ice maker. I then went to the web site and saw that 87% of the time it was the ice maker itself that needed to be replaced. I ordered one and it arrived quickly. Installing it was easy although I might never had figured out how to remove the electrical supply line to the old unit if I hadn’t watched the video. After installation no water went to the ice maker tray.
I had read a review saying that the supply line had frozen where it went into the ice maker. To check out that possibility I removed the line from the solenoid valve and tried to blow air through it. No air would pass. So I removed the ice maker so I could get at the possible ice obstruction. I repeatedly inserted a knife honing steel which I heated and reheated in hot water. Finally I heard water dripping to the floor from the supply line which I had left detached from the solenoid valve. Then I hooked everything up and ice making proceeded nicely. If the solenoid valve ever needs replacing, I have a extra one.
My husband put in in, no problem and all is well. My husband is a mechanic for large machinery/motors so installation was no problem. Thanks, better than buying a new fridge!!!
just as video instructions said, very easy just following them ,part arrived in very short time and was exact fit completely satisfied, saved repair man service charges and wait time
removed condenser fan -located behind refrigerator next to compressor, Not much clearance to work, there are 3 screws to remove from condensing motor,sounds easy but clearance is lacking to remove them ,(takes alot of PATIENCE). Then you have to remove the fan blades to be able to get clearance to remove motor!! I wouldn't reccommend trying this repair unless you are a pro.
Researched this problem on the web. Disassembled the main refrigeration unit (slide out freezer floor panel). The cooling coils were completely iced up. Thawed overnight. Tested the coil thermostat with a multimeter and discovered it worked. Note that the activation temp on this thermostat is 15 degrees Fahrenheit so the ice-water bath test on many web videos will NOT work. My test was in another refrigerator freezer compartment (everyone has two, right?). When the temperature went below 15 and stayed there for 15 minutes, the thermostat opened the circuit. Further investigation revealed that the defrost heater was burnt and shorted. Replaced the defrost heater only to discover that the defrost timer was also broken. After replacing the defrost timer and testing each component thoroughly, the refrigerator is back in service. Freezer maintains about 8 F and the main refrigerator stays at about 36. The unit cycles off properly and the defrost timer is correctly initiating a defrost cycle. Further, when the defrost heater is cycled on, the thermostat correctly shuts it off once the coils are defrosted. Watch the youtube videos. Find your parts and note their specifications so you can test them properly. And good luck.
Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!
Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.
The kit I recieved was perfect. All parts fit and where a perfect match. I will give you an A+ in handling my order and shocked by speed of your delivery.
Refrig ran and ran with a lot of hot air coming from the back. Temps in freezer and refrig areas would fluctuate with the unit running almost constantly. Discovered the fan was intermittently running, mostly not.
Removed the old fan; cut the wire and spliced in the new fan and reassembled. A little over one hour. Refrig is working perfectly now with lower settings. It is definitely off much more than on now.
The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.
I unpluged the refrig, removed the shelves and the back panel on the freezer side of the unit. This exposed the fan motor and fan blade. I removed two screws holding the fan unit in place, unpluged the wires connecting the fan unit to power, and then removed two other screws securing the fan motor to the bracket. I removed the fan motor blade from the old unit and installed it on the new fam motor. I replaced the fan unit into the bracket, pluged the wires back into the fan motor and secured the motor to the refrig. Replaced the back panel and shelves, pluged the refrig into the wall.....easy.
Had to replace ice bucket rack because auger motor broke the plastic backing and also the auger motor because shaft was bent on old auger motor. Just followed directions on web site to do repair.
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/11743835-1-S-Whirlpool-WP70048-3-Food-Door-Gasket-measures-30-3-4-amp-quot-by-39-amp-39.jpg "Food Door Gasket (measures 30-3/4" by 39') – Part Number: WP70048-3")
