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Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.
I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
old bearing completley gone; shaft eating through race making a horrible noise when running
pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.
Timer was not shutting down, running continously, and with no heat regulation
Removed the 2 hex head scres holding the front panel assembly to the main unit. Then removed the screws holding the back sheet metal panel to the control panel. Pull back on the control panel to disengage the slotted flanges from the main dryer body. Rotate the control panel forward to expose the wiring and guts of the panel. Remove the holding screw for the timer assembly and place it out of the way. DO NOT remove any of the wire connectors from the old timer assembly yet. Rmove the control knob from the old timer assembly using a flat head screwdriver to pry it from the control rod. Place the knob on te new timer assembly and screw the completed assembly to the control panel. Now remove the bridging wire terminal and attach to the new timer in the same position as the old one. Now one at a time remove the wire connectors from the old timer and attach to the corresponding terminals on the new assembly. Reattach the sheet metal back cover with the screws and then replace the entire panel assembly back into the main body slots. Replace the hex head scews and reattach the power which you disconnected prior to doing anything else. Clean up the dust bunnies as long as you are back there. Tell the wife that this was a very complicated repair and worthy of a beer and some golf course time.
first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer
I had never tried to fix a dryer before, but I checked your site and found detailed troubleshooting instructions. I found several parts diagrams that made me think it would not be too difficult. I found the GE Repair manual for my dryer and ordered it. I was able to determine that the sqeaking was in the front, and probably the slides were worn, as opposed to the drum roller. Whew! My daughter and I removed the front and checked them. They were totally worn away and the felt was crimped. We cleaned it up and ordered the replacement parts from you. When they arrived we made the repairs. One of the drum slide holders was too worn to hold the new slide so we applied a bit of super glue to hold it in place. My dryer is running quietly again. I am so glad for your online information. This was an fairly easy fix!
Pull the two scews to release the top of the cabinet. Pull the two screws to release the face of the cabinet and tilt out. Take the old slide out and install the new ones. Put it back together. No more squeeks My wife thinks I'm a genius...
Clothes were catching between the drum and front of dryer. Also was squeaking at times.
Opened dryer door and removed two screws that held front of top panel on. Lifted top panel off and removed two screws that held front panel to side panels. Tipped front panel forward and replaced all four slides. Cleaned everything off and put back together. Works great again. Thanks for this site and for others that have done these repairs before and posted their stories.
I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....
Bad Drive-Belt, Follower wheel and two front slider pads.
Unplug the AC cord. Open dryer door and unscrew 4 small Phillips screws that hold the top panel to the front panel. Tilt up the top panel. To remove the front panel: Look on the inside of the front panel, disconnect all the wire connections that go to/from the front panel, such as the light and door switch. Remove 2 screws that attach the top of front panel to the side panels using a 8mm or 5/16" wrench. Undo or loosen 2 Phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel, one at each bottom corner. Remove the front panel. Go to the back of the dryer. Remove the 8 screws holding the lower access panel (8mm or 5/16"). Remove the access panel. Also, remove the 2"x4" access plate in the center of the back panel (2 8mm/5/16"). Reach inside the small panel opening with a needle nose pliers and remove a Cir-clip and washer that holds the rear drum bearing shaft in place. Now you can remove the drum straight forward. Clean, clean, clean the insides. Replace the worn drive belt, follower wheel and front slider pads as needed. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Plug in and test. Drink beer.
