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replace door switch
1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed
My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.
1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent. 2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top. 3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go. 4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum. 5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it. 6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum. 7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description) 8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.
Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.
Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.
The wire mesh on the lint filter separated from the frame and lint was getting inside the dryer.
Took the old filter out and inserted the new filter which was a near perfect fit on a 36 year old dryed that is still kicking! Delivery of the part was less than 24 hours after ordering over the phone. Thanks1
unknown 25 year old GE dryer started making strange scraping noises when running. This even when there were no items in the appliance. Turning off the gas, and unplugging the power I disassembled the unit to find the nylon drum bushings worn down. Especially the felt like material under them that I think dissipates friction heat. A quick order to GD for the parts, 2 days later I had the part installed, and noise was gone.
Removed the top, four screws under the front inside the open door. Then the removed the front, two screws inside at top by drum and two screws on bottom. Then pulled out the drum, from there I was able to get to the bearing that was bad. Mine was a older model than the instructions showed that came with my repair parts but it was colse enough to get the job done. Your website is AWESOME!!! The entire experience was wonderful and made my repair as painless as possible. I have already recomended it to my friends, keep up the great work.
First of all unplug the dryer, move it to a location that you have room to work around it. Remove the top and then take the two screws out that are on the inside of the dryer close to the top and then loosen the two bottom front screws only. Remove the front of the dryer and then look in the back of the dryer in the center of it and there is a square hole with a cover, remove the cover and behind it is a c-clamp, remove it. At this time release the tension on the dryer's belt and then pull the drum out towards the front of the dryer. Once this is done you'll be able to see the heater coils. You have to remove the bolts that the wires are attached to and cut the wire so you can pull the old coils through the glass rings to get the old coil out. Open your package and have a 48" yardstick or a tape measure and stretch the coils to the lengths in the instructions. Thread the new coils through the glass holders and then you have to remove the three heater wires that go through the wall of the ring so you can connect the new wires to the new bolts provided with your kit. One idea is to take a picture with your smart phone before you take anything off if it seems you can't remember what when where so you can see how the wires and bolts go back together. Once you have the bolts and wires connected you just reverse the process and put the dryer back together. *********** If I knew what I know now I would order a few of the glass holders because two of mine were burnt and I would have replaced them if I had them; I'd buy 4 to 6 of them to make sure I had enough.
Dryer was very noisy. After I replaced the belt I noticed the bearing assembly was shot.
Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.
I removed the screws holding the top on and screws holding the front panel and rear access panel. I then removed the 3 screws holding the drum. I proceeded to take the belt off then lift the drum out. I replaced the heater coil and then the slides. I reassembled the dryer and dried the towels that were in the washer. I saved $20 by ordering from Part Select and not going through the local repair store, not to mention how much they would have charged to do what I did. I’m not a pro at fixing things but can hold my own. Thanks Part Select I will order again from you if I need a part!
Removed the screws that hold the draying unit (barrel) to get accest to the back of the switch, and that's when I noticed that I will need the belt and I ordered to when my existing belt goes I have a replacement.
dryer would make clunking noise and sometimes a scraping noise
I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.
Opened door and found recessed screws that screw into the top of the dry and removed them and then the front removed very easy. Then took of the plate on the back of the dryer to get to the pulley that the drive belt was on and took the belt off the pulley. The dry drum then slid out very easy, there was 2 of use which helped with the ease of getting the drum out. We replace the bearing and the idler pulley wheel. Vaccummed the lent out and then put it back together. Now it is squeek free.
Pulled the top of dryer off. Separated the door from the drum seal or gasket, slipped the belt through, put the drive belt on the motor and then put it all back together.
dryer was making thumping noise (like when a pair of sneaker is being dried)
Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump". 1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt. 2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum. 3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum. 4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present. 5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier. 6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal. This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.