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DCCB330GJ2WC Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DCCB330GJ2WC
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lint filter was broken
remove the broken one and replace it with the new one
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • walter from STRATFORD, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer was making a loud noise while running
Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Carlton from Bedford, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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dryer would light up gas coil bad
took 2 screws out and replace new coils
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Louis from CHARLES CITY, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Gas Dryer Runs With Heat for Less Than 5 minutes, Timer Won't Advance in Autodry
My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • julia from WOODRIDGE, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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GE front load gas Dryer not lighting after it initially starts
I removed the right side panel and top panel from the dryer. I removed the 2 wire and 3 wire connectors from the 2 coils. I removed the bracket holding the 2 coils, replaced the 2 coils, and replaced the bracket. I reconnected the wires to the appropriate coils and replaced the side and tops panels on the dryer. The dryer now lights every time the dryer calls for heat.
Parts Used:
M - Series Secondary Coil - 2 Terminals M-Series Primary Dual Coil Gas Valve
  • Bruce from CLEVELAND, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer would not heat up
As many of the other posts here on this website mentioned, I had the same problem of the dryer not heating up. I removed the front panel (4 screws on each side inside of door - easy - followed instructions) and once off I was able to view the igniter glowing properly so I knew the starter/igniter was not the issue. Everything I read then suggested that it must be the two terminal gas valve coil, and sure enough it was. Ordered part -- got it in literally a couple days -- removed bracket (two screws) put in new coil -- turned it on -- works great. Could not have been easier. This is a great website and would recommend it to everyone who is a Do It Yourselfer.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • David from Naperville, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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remove plastic and insert
inserted the lint catcher into the opening to replace the old one
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • MARY from ERIE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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gas drier would not heat
i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • DALE from HOPE HULL, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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no problem
this was a part i ordered for future use. i was very happy with the ordering process and speed of delivery from PartSelect.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame
  • john from west milford, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer would heat up at start then go cool
Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Richard from Palos Hills, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Gas dryer would produce heat for short time, then continue to run but with no heat.
Thanks to reports from others, I concluded that most likely the gas ignition coils (one or both) were no longer functioning properly. I replaced both with the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit which is about 1/2 the price of either coil individually -- yes,true,go figure! The actual replacement took only about 10 minutes. What was most difficult and took the most time was the removal of the front panel of the cabinet -- this was difficult only because there were no instructions in my owner's manual (or any other source I could find) and it took me awhile to figure it out. Now I could do the whole job in about 20 minutes! The detailed instructions from others as to the process of replacing the coils was invaluable -- I don't know if I would have been able to figure that out on my own. But most important was the information that enabled me to diagnose the problem in the first place. Thank you, all you previous comment contributors.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • James from Saint Paul, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer belt was broken
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Alvino from newtown, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Plastic handle in dryer broke off.
All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Steve from West Bloomfield, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Plastic Door Handle Cracked
Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • richard from pleasant grove, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Rythmical Squeaking
The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.

Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.

Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.

You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.

You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.

The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.

I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Michael from Edmond, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the DCCB330GJ2WC
106 - 120 of 557