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Dryer Not Starting
First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine
First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer. Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver). Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.
Dryer was not heating at any level and it was making noise while rotating
First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.
started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks
I shut off the power supply (pulled plug) . Opened the front access door on bottom of dryer, The two coils sat on top of burner unit, with a plate and 2 Phillip head screws securing them. .I used a small set of pliers to pull the terminals off, then I used a short Phillip head screw driver due to the proximity of the dryer drum close by. The coils slide off, slide the new ones on, re secure the plate with screws, reconnect the terminals, plug in the power cord and away you are for a fraction of the cost.
After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.
I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.
I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.
The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.
The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.
Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.
Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.
Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.
I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!
First we removed the front panel then the door. Removed the old coils and put in the new coils, oh yeah don't forget to disconnect the power supply first. Sure enough that was all it took and it runs great. You really can fix your own appliance if you take the time to do some research.
igniter wold come on for a second then shut off no flame
removed the two screws that hold the coils in place pulled the coils terminal connections off removed and replaced with new coils reattached quick disconnect terminals dryer now works better than when it was new
I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.
Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.
Dryer flame would light then would not ignite again
I used a socket to take of the front cover. I used a screwdriver to remove the two screws that held the coils in place. Replaced the coils and put everything backs together. Piece of cake!
Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...
Our gas GE "Eterna" King Sized capacity dryer started squeaking one day. I was suprised since the dryer was only a few years old, but assumed some grit had invaded and worn a bearing in the belt tensioner. My wife and I have three kids, so we use the dryer daily. The sound got louder quickly and finally it was so loud I had do something. After unplugging the appliance I took the top off the dryer (two screws in the top of the door jam) and the front off (two screws at the top of each corner) and in doing so saw that the drum bearing, which is just a round plastic "shelf" on which the tumbler drum rides, suspended over the door, was worn through. There were four little "slides" on the bearing surface, and all but one was worn down to dust. I ordered the replacement bearing and slides (two white, I didn't know I also needed two green and have since bought them too) from Part Select and they arrived in about three days. In the meantime I re-assembled the dryer easily and we did use it once or twice, shrieking. When the parts came in I installed them in about 20 minutes, screwing the new bearing onto the rear surface of the front panel, right over the opening for the dryer door. The dryer has worked perfectly since. I used one Phillips head screwdriver for the whole job and paid about $50.00 for the parts. I work in an office and I travel, and when I was a kid I fixed my own cars and stuff, but I'm no appliance repairma! Nevertheless, this was easy! I assume I saved at least $100. The dryer works perfectly and more importantly, it's quiet again!
