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Dryer becoming increasing noisy and vibrating
First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.
Many have already described the repair, and it was exactly as they have described. Remove the two screws inside the top of the opening which hold down the top of the dryer. Pull off the top, and look inside to remove the two small screws that attach the front of the dryer. As the front separates, the front comes out of the drum and the drum bearing will come into view. Pop out the drum bearing ~ there are no screws ~ it simply snaps in place. (I suggest removing the lightbulb first, or you'll be buying one of those also. )
Replace the new drum bearing and snap it into place. Then replace the four drum slides. Replacing the drum slides is a quick, one minute task. Mine were completely worn away ~ no wonder it was squealing so badly. Then reverse the process to put it all back together. Total job was maybe 15 minutes long. Easy as could be and saved a ton of money, I'm sure. Sounds like new now!
Piece of advice that I could not find anywhere prior to ordering ~ you need FOUR drum slides to replace them all. Not knowing, I originally only bought two, so I had to order two more and add them later. Also, I probably could have gotten away without replacing the drum bearing ~ the slides were all that was really worn.
Thanks for the quick turnaround on the orders and the advice on line. Easy, easy, easy!
We removed two screws to remove the top and two screws to remove the front. The dryer drum slides were easy to replace and the felt fit into a track. It was so easy and now my dryer is quiet again, no more rubbing/squeaking. I can't believe that was all we had to do, and for $60.00!!! I'll be back for future parts if needed. Thanks.
The part was delivered in record time. That was the best part. And it fit perfectly and was the correct color. The other filter was grey and the dryer is white. Thanks for being so efficient.
Unplug. Remove 3 knobs at front of panel. Remove 4 screws. Panel pulls forward. Remove green grounding wire to allow panel to come forward more. Pry up locking tab on switch. Turn switch to unlock from panel. Install new switch in reverse order of removal. Pull off each wire one at a time from old switch and attach to new switch. Reinstall panel and insert 4 screws. Done. My wife was so suprised that it actually worked and I fixed it in less than a day! Only took about 20 minutes. Thanks Part Select and the other repair stories that I read on your website.
Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.
The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.
I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).
Gas Dryer would heat for one heating cycle but no gas afterward. Ignitor would glow.
Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.
There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.
Heat deflecter coated with plastic from drying plastic table cloth.
Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.
Dryer was making high pitched screeching noises when running.
I removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws located under the front lip of the dryer over the dryer door. Then I removed the dryer door by removing the screws holding the hinges. I then removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the two screws at the top inside two corners. I the removed the old Dryer Drum Slide. The Drum Bearings were almost completley worn off. I installed the (4) new Drum Bearings (2 Clear or White and 2 brown) the same way they were installed on the old Dryer Drum Slide on the new Dryer Drum Slide. I then installed the Dryer Drum Slide the way I removed the old one. Then I pulled the old Lower Front Drum Seal-Felt and replaced with the new one. Works like new!
extremely loud continous noise when drying laundry
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!
I moved the dryer away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord. I unscrewed the 4 screws on the top of the dryer to gain access to the Dryer Rotary Start Switch. I pulled the part out of its set location and carefully removed the clip on wires. I then carefully attached the wires to the exact locations on the new part and put it back into the proper location. I installed the screws, plugged in the power cord and moved the dryer back to its location for operation. I turned the circuit breaker back on. I failed to mention that I turned that off first of all. I set the dryer control to dry and turned the Dryer Rotary Start Switch to on and it worked immediately. This took about 12 minutes totally from start to finish. Thank you for being there. Sincerely, John Pewters
