Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Not cooling, repair tech told us what to buy and install
We only knew what the problem was from a repair tech coming out. He was cool so he told us to order the part ourselves and install it. Easy as pie! A plug in part. We saved over $150.00 bucks doing it ourselves!
Tabs on the end caps on the door's bottom shelf Retainer bar broke off.
I pressed the end caps onto the retaining bar. Lined up the tabs and pressed the retaining bar back in place. The first side went in very easy. The second side was a little harder due to the tension of the bar and getting the plastic tabs lined up correctly and snapping them in place. Less than 15 minutes and the shelf retaining bar was fixed.
ohms-tested the overload relay and PTC component BUT failed to test the compressor. Turns out that it was the compressor was bad and a do-it-ourselfer won't be able to change out this component. Must be licensed to install freon back into the lines once they are separated. Also specialized soldering equip. and freon equipment is needed to perform this task. And if you add too much or the wrong kind of product or don't accurately install the bullet-piercing valve you can risk damaging the unit. So, ALWAYS Oms-test the compressor while testing the capacitor and overload and relay kit!!
Location of the run capacitor was not as the video described.
It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.
My amana side to side freezer stoped freezing i found parts select and helped my get a part that by % would be the problemand it worked thanks
I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks
This was second time I had to replace the Defrost Board. Last time was very difficult due to not understanding the instructions. This time I watched the video a couple of times, then went thru the steps in the video. It was much easier this time.
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
The end caps broke on several of the retainer bars. The retainer bars kept falling out and so did my food.
I replaced the broken end caps by inserting the new ones into the ends of the retaining bar and then inserted the entire piece into the slots of the refrigerator where the bars were missing because the end caps weren't holding the retaining bar and I had to place them in a safe place outside of the refrigerator. Too easy. I'm just glad it was such an easy fix. I'm thankful for this site, the value was great, service quick and my life is now a little easier.
Like the others, pull out the freezer baskets on the bottom of the frezzer and remove the condenser coil cover. If the coils are solid ice, you have a problem with the unit not defrosting properly. Defrost the coils with a hair dryer (takes about 30 minutes) to get you back to a fridge that'll work for a few days until the new adaptive defrost control board arrives. Then follow directions provided by all the others to replace the board.
My refrigerator would stop cooling and some googling led me to the PartSelect page where I learnt why this could be happening. For the first time, I just used a hair-dryer to remove all the ice from the freezer. But when I ran into the same problem about 15-20 days later, I decided to replace the ADP board. I ordered the part from PartSelect and it arrived promptly.
I started out looking into the freezer section for the ADP board, but after spending 15-20 minutes there, realized that the ADP board is in the refrigerator section. Dont make the same mistake. It took me some time to take the top-panel out but the instructions by others were awesome. Another note: the ADP board is on the inner-side (hidden side) of the top panel. So, you have to actually pull down the top-panel after taking out all the screws. Getting the existing ADP board was a little hard as well and I ended up breaking the latch that holds it securely with the connector (but not a problem since I was going to throw the old ADP board anyway).
Overall, I was quite happy to fix this myself. Thanks and kudos to PartSelect for hosting this forum.
The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting. I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com. I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control Board"! After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost. After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts. While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB. The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached. My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.
