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Ice dispencer would not work
At first I took our apart, and tried to fix the feed wheel. I did something wrong putting it back together because even though it feed ice, it would not crush ice. Less that a week later the whole thing jammed. I really did not know what was wrong with the unit, so I was pleased to find an entire assembly for a lot less that an in-home repair would have cost. The part arrived early in it's estimated time table. I simply pulled out the old unit slid in the new, transferred the ice into the new unit and that was it. I was up and running, my wife was thrilled and I was a hero. THANKS!!!
we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.
Slide off drip tray at bottom of ice/water compartment.
Remove the 3 screws along bottom edge of face plate. Slide face plate upwards slightly to disengage tabs holding top of face plate to fridge door. Pull face plate slightly away from fridge, reach behind plate, and disconnect wiring harness. Set face plate aside.
Remove 3 screws holding ice/water actuator mechanism to fridge door. Disconnect wiring harness on left side of actuator mechanism. This allows the left side of mechanism to swing outwards.
Looking down on top of mechanism, loosen the two screws holding the small, metal retaining plates for ice actuator. (The metal plates hold the ice actuator pivot pins in place in the actuator mechanism). Once the two screws are loosened, the metal plates can be moved to the side to free the ice actuator.
Remove old ice actuator and replace with new actuator. NOTE: Ensure the black ice door flap regulator (the thing with the gear teeth) stays engaged with the gear on the damping mechanism while installing the new ice actuator).
Move the metal retaining plates back in place over the ice actuator pivot pins and tighten both screws. Move the ice/water actuator mechanism back in place and re-connect the wiring harness on the left side. Re-install the 3 screws holding the entire mechanism in place.
Re-connect the wiring harness to the face plate and slide the tabs at the top of the plate into the holes in the fridge door. Slide face plate down and line up the 3 screw holes at the bottom of plate. Re-install the 3 screws. Re-install the drip tray. You're done!
pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.
Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.
When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.
I removed the drawer from the support rails and placed it aside. I then removed the entire shelf that the rails were attached to. Each rail contained one (1) screw. I removed the screw, slid the support rails back approximately a 1/4 inch and they popped out. I replaced with the new rails, sliding them into place in reverse of how I removed the damaged ones & attached with the screw. I cleaned the shelf off and placed it back in the refrigerator, and placed the meat drawer onto the new rails. It actually took longer to clean the shelf than perform the repair.
turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place. Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes. Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa
everything in refrigerator freezing even on warmest setting
To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM
The repair was not my worry, but ordering the correct part. I was so pleased with this web site and the quick delivery of the part that I ordered. I easily found the bin I needed for my refrigerator and had the part at my doorstep with two days. I am extremely happy with this site.
OK, what I really want to talk about is the really poor quality of the fan motor. This is the third time that it has failed (about once per year). Local maintenance shops do not stock the motor, hence the frozen food thaws before they can get a part. I always keep a spare motor so that I can immediately repair the fridge.
The repair is very easy - remove all racks in the freezer and then remove their slides. Then remove the screws in the back plate. Due to the ice maker, the plate will not come out, so just pull it up and tie it off. Remove the screws to remove the motor fan assembly. I did the repair with the power on, BUT BE CAREFUL if you do so. Uplug the power from the motor, and remove the assembly from the freezer. Disamble and replace the motor. Then revese the above and you're freezing again.
Unplugged fridge, removed all screws from inside freezer panel. Removed bracket, fan blade and wires from evaporator motor and swapped motor with new one. Very easy. Professional repairman wanted almost $200 to fix it. Total cost for me was $35 and 25 minutes on a Saturday afternoon. Thanks PartSelect for the quick delivery, low price and tips on the replacement.
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.
The Upper Crisper Drawer Cover cracked in the Front
Simply replaced the drawer cover (frame) of that shelf. Removed crisper drawer, removed glass shelf, removed frame, placed new frame in, then glass, then drawer. Very easy.
Ice maker wouldn't change from crushed to cubed ice
First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.