Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
igniter glowed, but oven would not light or stay lit
The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!
First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!
Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure. Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven. Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray. 2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve. 3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter. 4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers). 5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector). 6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape. 7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation. 8. Removed coat hanger when got through. 9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws. 10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve. 11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
A very common problem for ovens not heating up is the oven igniter going bad. Depending on how much you use your oven, they only last about 5 years. It is easy to replace, but getting it off can be a little tricky since the screws are exposed to so much heat. Once you got it off, you can unclip the old one and clip the new one right in. Then bolt it back on, throw in the racks and shelves, and start cooking. I replaced the igniter twice, the temperature sensor once, and the control panel once.
The Just Answer website answer felt certain that the igniter was the problem, and hence I ordered a new igniter. I removed the oven bottom plate and the cover over the valve connection to get an overview of the job. Was really not necessary. Actual repair was only to remove the two screws holding the igniter, pull the cord to get to the connector, and switch igniters. Then put everything back together again. Job done. Oven works great.
My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.
We replaced Flat Style Oven Igniter simply by removing the oven racks, then removed the bottom of the oven. Used a Philips screwdriver to remove the old igniter, placed new one in. The wires to the oven from the ingniter just needed to be in a clip. Tightened the screws and replaced bottom & racks. Oven worked wonderful after this, like a brand new oven!
Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.