Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
F-3 error code
I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.
It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought
Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.
Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.
Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.
Igniters were flaky on 2 burners and almost dead on 2
The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".
oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
Burners would not ignite flame...Had to start with match.
Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.