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No heat in oven
Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.
Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.
Unplugged two connectors and plugged into new burner. Couldn't have been easier! Also, I was so pleased that it matched the other three burners exactly!
original fixture required bulb - this fixture (all-in-one) was great
Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.
Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.
The oven igniter came on but the gas valve never turned on.
1. remove oven door 2. remove racks and oven floor 3. remove oven burner 4. unhook igniter 5. install new igniter 6. tuck wiring back in as reinstalling burner 7. put in the insulation supplied in kit 8. install floor and racks. 9. install door. 10. test system 11. oven came on. SUCCESS
Turned burner about 1/16 turn to left. Lifted burner from stove. Disconnected two wire connectors. Connected same wires to new burner. Set burner in place and turned 1/16 turn to right. Tested burner. Lighter worked on first attempt and burned perfectly. Took about 3 1/2 minutes.
BURNER DID NOT IGNITE. HOLE ON SIDE OF BURNER HAD A HOLE, SO FLAME WAS UNEVEN.
USED CHANNELOCK PLIERS TO ROTATE BURNER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PULLED OFF THE CONNECTORS, APPLIED RUST TREATMENT TO THE REPLACEMENT PART, WHICH HAD ITSELF STARTED TO CORRODE. SPADE LUGS ON THE OLD PART HAD A SPADE ADAPTER, BUT THE CONNECTION SEEMED TO WORK REGARDLESS OF THE MISS-MATCH. PART WAS REPLACED, TURNING THE BURNER CLOCK-WISE. VERY QUICK AND EASY REPAIR.
Oven ignitor would glow but took 30 - 40 mins to heat
It took me 10 mins to replace the oven igniter and I did it myself. Oven is working fine now. I saved myself a $300.00 repair bill. Thank you for making the part available and saving me dollars!
First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!
1st unplug stove opened cover to wireing box with a phillips driver removed old part transfered wires one by one installed new part installed cover & pluged in stove & worked line new.
Same as the other entries in this section. The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel. Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs. That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range. I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
