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Defective Gas Oven Igniter
After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on. Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out. After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem. After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.
gas oven igniter would glow, but oven did not turn on
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire pull the old igniter out. Install new igniter, by mounting to frame with two screws, feed the two wire assembly through the hole behind the gas tube, reconnected the wires, oven started right up. PartSelect was great, received the part very fast and there feedback comments are a big help.
Oven would not heat. Electronic ignitor (heating element) was not heating/not getting to temperature to open the automatic gas valve.
Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off. Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.
I unplugged the power to the stove first, I removed the racks and cover plate at the bottom on the oven. Located the 2 screws holding the element igniter in place. I pulled the stove forward and removed the back cover plate and unplugged the old element. Installed the new element and tested the igniter, special note my oven would not ignite the propane with the cover plate not first being installed. The igniter glowed but would not ignite fuel.
I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .
Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.
I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.
He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.
We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.
My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.
The oven igniter lit up, but did not trigger the gas.
This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!
