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Freezer Door Leaking
My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.
Took out screws completely then had to wedge gasket underneath. Gasket comes a little tangled in box should remove immediately and keep at room temp till ready to use.
Squealing noise and bottom half of freezer only froze
I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.
I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.
Original magnetic door seal no longer sealing & showing gaps. Freezer running continuously. Getting ice buildup around door frame & inside top of freezer.
I originally ordered an aftermarket replacement seal off intranet at half the price. It came in poor packaging & crumpled in a ball when received. After install, it would not seal & worse than the old seal that was replaced. I removed poor quality seal & returned it. I then ordered the OEM seal from PartSelect. It came in proper packaging. I kept the inside door shelving in place with two mid screws. Beginning at top I inserted sealing grove into channel of shelving working all the way around door frame. Making sure there was no crinkles or bulges at one place & it was all even. I replaced all screws ensuring not to over tighten. Close door and made sure magnetic seal pull closed to freezer & door on both sides by sliding my finger all the way around. I did not open the door for 1 hour to ensure rubber seal had taken proper shape to freezer frame. After I worked door Open/Close many times. Door seal worked perfectly every time then and now. This is a perfect example why to buy quality parts the first time.
Coming from the refrigerator, there was an intermittent "clicking noise", occurring about every 30 seconds. The frig. eventually failed .
I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.
The temperature displayed on the control panel was erratic
The replacement of the Thermistor is a snap. Take out the bottom two shelves, remove the 8 screws in the back panel, pull it out. Cut the wires to the old thermistor and install the new one. There are demo's on you tube so I wont go into detail.
Unfortunately the replacement door seal was packaged with twists in it and would not lay flat on the door. I found the old seal was not the problem - but instead ice had grown between the door and the door panel so that the door would not seal properly. I reinstalled the old door seal and everything is fine now.
The light was cycling on and off when I opened the door, general flaky operation
As noted, the control board comes without a new housing, bare control board only. I was unable to find a replacement housing. It is impossible to remove the housing from the freezer without breaking the outer retaining tabs.
Unplug the freezer and apply tape on the door around the housing to prevent scratching the paint. Pry the housing out of the door from the front with a stout putty knife or two, which requires a good deal of force. Once the housing is removed from the door, the circuit board comes out of the housing fairly easily following the instructions included with the new control board, and the new board snaps right in to the old housing.
The housing re-installed OK and stays in place acceptably well even with broken retaining tabs.