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oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve requires 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.
When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Replaced Bake Burner Tube on Frigidaire Gas Range Model FGGF3058RFC
The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.