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RF burner only had High Heat.
Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are removed from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.
Burner switch would not disengage, leaving +24VAC to the element.
Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Replaced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.
Pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the power cable, removed the top part of the back where the switch was. In front there are two screws that are philip heads that hold the the switch in place. Be careful when replacing the wires. When you take one wire off, place it on the new switch in the the same position. The switch can be put back, but be careful of the angle, because it has four screw holes. Replace the switch, replace the back, plug the power cable in, and push the stove back to it's original position. Make sure there isn't anything on the burner when you test the switch.
Statistics said it was the element. I replaced that this did not correct problem. Went with the second statistic and it was correct. I showed the video to my tenant and he replaced it and called me in a few minutes saying it worked fine. Look at the video then it will be easy for you. The only thing in the video that was not clear is that you have to peel the sticker off of the front of the old clock and attach it to the new one. Everything else is exactly like it says.
8" burner would get red hot (High) with knob set on 4 or 5, them cool back down to the correct setting. In a few minutes it would be red hot again.
Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinite Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.
I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on the new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!
Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to call a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.
A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.
removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.
removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine
Replaced temp probe and checked OK. This model did not have a full back as the instructional video showed. No cover to remove at all. Only suggestion might be to include two wire nuts of proper size. Average wire nut would be too big. Fortunately, I happened to have a couple.
After a power outage or bake and broil features stopped working, but the rest of the appliance worked fine. I wasn't sure if it was the clock part or the temp probe, but decided the cost replacing both parts was less than a repairman. So first, I watched the video link on the part's page...extremely helpful! Then it was a matter of a few screws and unplugging and re-plugging a few wires. I have NO electrical experience, and very little handy-man experience. This is a simple repair that anyone could do. I am most amazed with PartSelect because it literally took 24 hrs after placing the order for it to arrive on my doorstep. And it saved us an estimated $175 in repairman labor fees. I will be telling everyone about our great experience. Thank you!
I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,
I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.
Large burner switch made popping and buzzing noises.
The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.
