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Large burner was surging indicating infinite switch failed
Changing out the switch was easy. Paid attention to wire connections to avoid mixup. Removal and installation of the switch was easy. It's the back panels that gave me the most challenge. Used screwdrivers and needle nose pliers to do repair. Having a second set of hands for the two part back panel reinstall was most helpful, but can be accomplished by 1 person. Burner works great. This is a easy DIY fix.
top electric element (broiler) burned up/melted/dropped in several parts onto oven floor
I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......
Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.
Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.
Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!
I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!
I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.
1960's oven door gasket fell apart, actual gasket not available any more
Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.
removed 4 screws lifted off the face with switches replaced the bad switch and put the face plate back on. if you have any concerns just watch the video , part select has posted its great
burner receptacle failed (stove over 30 years old)
Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.
Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done