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Worn out terminal block
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!
All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.
I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)
Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!
Right front surface burner did not work due to broken burner plug in wire harness.
Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.
Repair was fast and easy 2 screws out 2 screws in. The best thing was I ordered the part Tues. morning and received it on Weds. To extra shipping charge!!! They were just that fast. Awesome Company!! Thanks!!
Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received. Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.
Sparks where the heating element plugs into the stovetop
The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked! So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.
Read instuctions first Turn breaker off to stove or unplug to be sure. Remove burner and drip pans. Remove scews holding socket in place if you are doing more than one make sure you keep in same location. Raise cook top untill supports latch in. Assemble plug it comes with two types holder compare to your plug. cut wire to old plug so you have enough wire to connect back with new. Strip wire back and place shrink tubeover wires wire nut together heat with a lighter or heat gun then do remaining plugges. place back in cover and replace scews. make sure wire are not to long to get under burner when cook top lowered. Lower cook top and clean burner plug ends with a little sandpaper to make sure they make good connection. replace pans and burner. turn on breaker or plug in stove making sure the burners come on when turned on good luck g.d.
Cut the two wires approx 1 inch behind old connector and removed one screws to remove old connector, stripped approx 3/4 inch off the wires and connected them to the new wires on the new connector with wire caps and shrink wraps which came with the new connector. Replaced the old screw with the new screw and the job was completed. Be sure and disconnect power before starting!!
I just installed the new burners into the proper place and they fit This was very easy to order. Just had to find the model number which the web site told me where to find this. I am very satisfied with the service Thank You