Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
In chasing down a plumbing problem elsewhere, I stripped the threads on the washer's inlet valve when swapping the hot and cold hoses.
Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.
First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!
I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well. The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well. I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.
First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money
Take out softener dispenser. Then take off sealing cam that sits over the cams. Removed center bolt for the agitator and pulled assembly out. Installation was in reverse order.
As the washer was trying to move the agitator back and forth to wash the clothes it kept slipping and making a grinding noise and the agitator wouldn't move much at all.
I removed the top cap of the agitator which is actually the fabric softener dispenser.It comes off by hand.Under that was some type of a cap or a seal like piece of plastic.Also removed by hand.Under that I saw a 9/16 bolt head.I took that out with a socket set and a couple of extentions.Now I was able to remove the cup shapped part called the AGITATOR CAM ASSEMBLY. In this part are three comma shapped pieces of plastic.Sorta looked just like a big cashew nut.On these pieces there are little teeth which when working properly will swing out just a bit and lock into the agitator itself and this is what makes it move back and forth(or agitate). Well the teeth on mine were rounded off and would not grab the agitator.So I go to this stores web site by doing a GOOGLE search for my machines model number and this GREAT web site had an exploded view of my machine showing the exact parts by name and number that I needed.Great price ,supper fast delivery.Really I had these parts within 5 days of placing the order.I put them in and it went back together just as easy as it came apart.I called it a bit difficult because I had no idea how to take apart a washing machine and I didn't know what I was looking for when I got in there.I got lucky.
removed top of agitator, used an extenison with a 7/16 socket, removed 1 screw, pulled out cam and only replaced the dog ears. put back together and now it WORKS LIKE NEW. (knock on wood)
There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.
Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.
Factory hose wore thin over time and water pressure caused blowout
Very easy replacement. The new hose was more like a formed radiator hose and fit exactly. Removed two screws at rear of control panel and separated the rear cabinet panel from the front cabinet enough to get to the water valve. I then disconnected the break hose from the valve by compressing the spring clamp. I then disconnected the other end from the washer water inlet by also releasing another spring clamp. The new hose was installed using the same clamps. The cabinet was reassembled and washer tested for leaks.
I watched the video from the web site, decided that pulling the whole case was more work than needed. I tipped the washer back at about 45 degrees so that I could get under it and braced it so that it would not fall back fwd. Put a medium cooking bowl under the pump, used a channel locks to remove the 2 spring clamps that where around the hoses and slide the hoses off and let the water drain into the bowl. Then used a medium straight slot screw driver to release the clips from each side of the pump and slid the pump off the shaft. If you turn the clips 90 degrees they will slip out and had to remove the upper clip to get the pump out. Lined up the pump and the shaft making sure that the flat side of shaft and pump lined up and slid it on. Reinstalled the pump clips and slid the hoses back on the pump slide the clamps back in place lowered the washer and test ran it for leaks. Great Job NO leaks. Whole job took me less than 30 minutes.
1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet. (unplug the washer) 2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way. 3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel. 4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet. 5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it. 6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way. 7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor. 8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor 9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor 10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor. 11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler. 12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly (the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)
loud noise during spin cycle, then not spinning at all
Watching videos identified what parts to purchase. Once identified - WATCH EACH PARTS VIDEO (again). Lessons learned: 1) better to NOT tilt the washer 2) watch (more than once) and learn from the videos 3) must difficult step was loosening the tub retaining nut without having a spanner wrench (used a hammer and a short / wide blade screwdriver) 4) ended up being the tub support was not sitting properly in the suspension plate 5) cleaned and changed parts while apart 6) running as good as new
