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burner on electrics range was either off, or fully on
The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part. Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws. turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good. It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available
Rheostat temperature controller failed. No heat at ring.
Turned off power at breaker. Removed screws holding control knobs in position. Removed knob and unscrewed nut holding switch in place. Noted wire positions and undid connections. Connected wires to new unit. Replaced nut and screws and control knob. Restored power and checked operation. You can do this. Don't call an electrician.
I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE GRILL FIRST. Then Removed the knob on the top face plate and then removed the 2 self tapping screws at the high end and this allowed the face plate to be pushed forward. And allowed access to remove the switch I removed the wires one at a time and replaced them on the new switch. All done in 20 minutes.
I pulled off the other 3 old knobs. Pushed on the new ones, which pushed on hard, but work. They stick out farther than the originals. They look a little different, but only to me. No one else would notice. The main part is, it works. A little spenty for my taste, but did not know where else to go and they arrived very quick.
The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.
Burner on 'high' only, no other settings other than 'off'.
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
Simply pull off old knobs and replace with the new parts. Didn't think I was going to find replacement parts. The equipment is actually over 25 yrs old. Thanks for partselect.
I also sprayed them 3-times with a clear coat before installing. The clear coat I purchased at WalMart once I noticed it claimed to be safe for plastic. Avoid a clear lacquer based product.
Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!