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my stovetop light did not work
We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire. Now I have the old bulb for back up!!! Thank you for having my replacement tube!!
First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Little or no heat from oven, cakes baking unevenly
Replaced both parts to not take any chances. Had to first find the hole in the back of the oven for the temperature sensor kit. We were trying too hard and overlooked the obvious. It goes behind the small black panel, as you look at the back of the stove it is top left and held in place by only one screw. Once we found it everything went very well and the oven is working great-back in the cake business again!
I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.
After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.
Oven temperature lagging set temperature by almost 100F
Removed frame to cabinet lag screws Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven) Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven Uncoupled wire harness Installed new sensor in reverse order
Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.
Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well
Removed two screws, unplugged the old unit, plugged in the new, screwed the new in. Job done. Would have been less than five minutes if I hadn't kept dropping the screws.