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Washer wouldn't enter the spin cycle. Clothes wet at end of wash cycle.
Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.
I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks
Both shock absorbers for the tumbler had broken off
The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!
first removed top of machine. removed 3 valve core wires set. Then removed left top screw on valve. Then removed vent tube to get to lower right screw. disconnected hose connect rack so valve housing could be removed & new installed. Rapped insulation around valve & installed. Put everything back together in reverse order.
I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went. Garry
Basket loose and banging around - both shocks broken
-Unplug machine and remove all water connections -Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver -Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws) -Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes -inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place. -reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was) -reattach back panel -reestablish water hose connections -plugged in and was in business -had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!
I had called a repair man; and fortunately he never returned my call. After reading many of the reviews involved with the same problem, and wanting to use my washer, I decided it was easy enough to give it a try. And so it was. 2 screws in back removed the cover; and 2 screws in the front of the washer permitted the removal of the affected part. Removed three "plugs" from old; put them on the new part; replaced it back in the washer, and replaced the two front screws, which held it in place. Replaced top, securing with the two screws. And surprise - surprise -- the washing machine was working again! Your reviews were so helpful and encouraging --- that this really old lady decided to try it --- and like they all said "It was really easy to fix."
Would go into high spin in regular wash settings .
(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .
By unscrew the washer Machine door off' then place the door flat surface and start to unscrewed each screw carefully keep all the screws together then remove the broken glass that you don't cut yourself in a safe place, then place the New glass back on & replaced all the screws back on tightly once all the screws back in then replaced it back on to the washer Machine, make sure you pre-test your washer Machine for no leaks.
Pump motor made humming noise and wouldn't drain water from tub.
Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.
Our washer would not do the final spin. Error code was 47, which is door not closing
I removed 2 screws from the the top back of top. Removed the cover. Removed the 2 screws holding the door lock assembly.Removed the door lock assembly, disconnected the 3 wiring harnesses. Connected the wiring harnesses to the new door lock switch assembly. Installed the new unit in the door lock, reinstalled the top.Done.
Despite putting all the information about my washer in the order, I received a dispenser drawer that was similar to the one I needed, but would not fit. It was also a slightly different color than the original part on my machine, so obviously someone just threw it in a box and sent it to me. It wasn’t even wrapped in plastic! Just the part in a box, no instructions, no bill of sale, nothing. When I needed to return it because it wasn’t the proper part, I HAD TO PAY THE $10.00 TO SHIP IT BACK!!! Really poor customer service in my opinion. Hopefully I will at least get a credit for the incorrect part that I had to pay to return.
The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.
