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Convection Oven Cooling Fan Runs All Of The Time
TURN OFF BREAKER PROVIDING POWER TO OVEN
First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.
I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
I ordered the new part, which arrived in just 2 days. I did not pull the oven away from the wall, I merely turned off the electric, unscrewed the bad element, pulled it out enough to see the ends, and then I removed the existing wires using needle nose pliers. I put the wires on the new element, inserted it back into the oven wall, and screwed it tight. I turned the electric back on, and checked it out. Worked like a charm! Only 40 bucks (including shipping), five minutes of my time, and I avoided an expensive service call. :-)
It was real easy. Removed two screws, pulled the element forward, removed to clip on wires, removed element and put the new element in place, replaced wires and screws, turned it on and up to temp. in no time. great service and quick delivery on getting the part.
my wife did the the job and it was that easy. she took out two screws sliped the wires off put the two wires back on and put the screws in . She is a bank teller and teachers water aerobics
oven heat tempature uneven and would not fully heat up.
Turned off 230 volt breaker to range,connected old wires to new element ,put back into place replaced the two mounting screws. Turned breaker back on and tested range.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new wires, replaced the two screws and turned on the oven to test it. Easiest repair job I have ever done.
Slide stove out and unplug. Using nut driver (phillips screw driver would work fine) remove screws securing back panel. Remove back panel. Pull off wires from heating element. I made a lose knot on left wire so I could install as removed without confusion - sometimes it matters. Removed 2 screws securing element inside the oven. I installed everything as it was - oven works great. I saved over $100 and my wife thinks I'm a genius. Hardest part was cleaning accumulated mess behind the stove.
Removed 2 phillips screws and pulled elements out 3 to 4 inches. One of the leads touched the housing and blew the circuit breaker, so don't forget to unplug or turn the breaker off! Simply slide clips off and install on new element. push back in place and reinstall 2 screws. Very simple. P.S. element was delivered very fast!