Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...) Assembled the block parts. Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve. Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements. They work very well now.
Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver. Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts. Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink. Took 20 minutes.
I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...
Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!
Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received. Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.
Right front surface burner did not work due to broken burner plug in wire harness.
Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.