Rubber grate pads that protect the range top had worn and were flat.
It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.
Removed oven grills and top of burner pan. This exposed the igniter. Removed 3 phillips head screws from igniter bracket. Slid old igniter out the back end. Removed utility drawer. Removed two screws from back pan covering igniter plug-in. Unplugged igniter, removed from range. Handling of igniter is tricky..do not touch black end. Slide new igniter into the bracket, feed wire with connector through hole in back (where igniter was removed from), install the three screws for the bracket (your new igniter is now secure), from the bottom, plug in the new connector it only goes on one way. Re-install pan with two screws. Put utility drawer back in..job is complete!!
Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.
All four Spark did not ignite or only once and a while
Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each- WATCH YOU DONT STRIP HEADS) and disconnecting electrode wires ( DONT HAVE TO- IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SIDE TOP UNIT OVER), unscrewed the old module, removed each of the 6 wires,one at a time and connected wires to the new module. Plug in stove to test before you screwed it into place, reinstalled the top unit , put the stove top in place,. Done!
shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.
Turn the power off to the Stove Removed six screws from the Baffle Drip and removed Baffle Drip. Removed two screws from the Oven Light Assy. Position the Oven Light Assy to get to the ERC-3. Removed four screws from the ERC-3 unit and separated the ERC-3 unit from the Oven Light Assy. Remove the old Overlay, Mylar from the ERC-3 Unit. Install the New Overlay, Mylar on the ERC-3. Install the ERC-3 back to the Oven Light Assy. Install the Over Light Assy. Install the Baffle Drip and turn the power on to the Stove.
I pulled the racks out of the oven. Then pull the plate off that covers the burner. There is another shield with a nut on it that covers the burner. Removed it. The ignitor is mounted on the back of the burner, held by 3 screws, remove them. Pull the bottom sliding drawer out completely. (you have to lay down for this). There is a metal plate in the very back held with 2 screws, remove them and pull the plate out. You'll see the 2 high temp wires (White) with a plug connector, simply unplug the connector and you are ready to pull the whole ignitor assembly off the burner. The ignitor ceramic base simply slides out of the sleeve. Put the new ignitor in the sleeve and put everything back together. It's pretty simple. This is the second ignitor I have installed in 2 years, hopefully I'll get more life out of this one. Good Luck.
ignitor changed resistance so gas valve wouldn't operate
The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.
Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each sex ready before repair.
the oven would not heat. The ignitor would heat up, but not enough to allow the gas valve to open.
The repair was fairly straightforward. The drawer below the oven had to be pulled out and the panel in the rear (looking from the front through the opening where the drawer was) was removed. It was then a matter of removing two screws and unsnapping the wire connection. And then replacing the igniter.
Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
Very simple process of just ensuring you have the correct size racks and remove the old racks and replace them with the new ones. Having ordered a lot of things on the internet, I am very pleased with using Part select and would "highly" recommend them to all!!
