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Oven would not light
I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.
Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!
Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC
Researched through this site to find part numbers and names. Youtubed it to see how to install the part. Ordered the exact part via this site and received it in only a day or two. Installed it in less than 15 minutes and the oven works amazing. It gets up to temp quickly and holds temp better than it has in years. Very satisfied!
I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.
Rubber grate pads that protect the range top had worn and were flat.
It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.
Removed the oven racks for room to work. Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up). Remove winged cover plate. See igniter assembly. Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily). The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out. Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable). Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage. Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires. Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation. The part number should be on the igniter. I did not bother matching the part number. Just matched the stove brand and model. The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable. I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else. Just reverse the removal process. Just takes a little time and patience. Very very doable. Good luck.
shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.
We removed the oven protective shield, took out the broken glass (very carefully) and replaced it with the part shipped. Then, we replaced the protective shield and it was done.
Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.
All four Spark did not ignite or only once and a while
Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each- WATCH YOU DONT STRIP HEADS) and disconnecting electrode wires ( DONT HAVE TO- IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SIDE TOP UNIT OVER), unscrewed the old module, removed each of the 6 wires,one at a time and connected wires to the new module. Plug in stove to test before you screwed it into place, reinstalled the top unit , put the stove top in place,. Done!
Removed oven grills and top of burner pan. This exposed the igniter. Removed 3 phillips head screws from igniter bracket. Slid old igniter out the back end. Removed utility drawer. Removed two screws from back pan covering igniter plug-in. Unplugged igniter, removed from range. Handling of igniter is tricky..do not touch black end. Slide new igniter into the bracket, feed wire with connector through hole in back (where igniter was removed from), install the three screws for the bracket (your new igniter is now secure), from the bottom, plug in the new connector it only goes on one way. Re-install pan with two screws. Put utility drawer back in..job is complete!!
