I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!
Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received. Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.
Switch was intermittently bad . Had to replace . Cleaing the old grease was more trouble than replacing the switch
Most difficult problem was locating and getting to the two screws one at each end of the cowling under the upper facias for the griddle and burner sections respectively . Once out , all knobs removed , the switch was accessed by pulling the cowling forward and up a couple inches . Noting the 3 small color coded wires locations and the two color coded power input wires for install of new switch . Balck sharpie touched up normal wear on cowl and facia panels .
The computer displayed F-2 & F-3 indicating a temp sensor problem.
Removed the old sensor which is held into the upper right of the back of the oven by removing the two screws and pulling the sensor out. Then disconnected the sensor from its connector. Replace the old with the new by simply clicking it into the connector. Then pushed the wire back into the oven wall and screwed the two screws back in. The whole job took about one minute to do after evaluating the process. While it was not necessary to remove the door, I did (which was very easy) and ended up cleaning the glass inside and out. All in all, a complete success. Oven working as new.
I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
The heating element (bottom coil) went out in my oven.
Cut off power to my range at the circuit breaker. Removed the 2 screws from the original element, pulled the element out about 4 inches to expose the wires to see the connections. (I put clothes pins on the wires to keep the wires from possibly sliding back into the holes in the oven.). Pulled the connections apart carefully, removed the old element, plugged in the new one, slid the wires back in the holes, replaced the 2 screws & was done! I did this by myself before my husband got home ... very easy! And I was thrilled to have my oven back!
