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Oven burner will not light consistantly
The oven was inconsistanty lighting and I could not predict when it would. After reading some repair reviews I determined that the problem was most likely the igniter. I purchased one from your site and it arrived the next day. Awsome! Had to take out six screws to get to the wiring and removed the igniter. The wiring was a simple plug. Replaced the igniter in about 20 minutes and the oven has been working flawless every since. THANKS!
The igniter was just glowing and it didn't open the gas valve
I removed the screws and unplugged the connectors and i inserted the new igniter which was glowwing much brighter than the old one which gave me an indication that it has the amount of temperature to open the gas valve.Idid a good job.
New JennAir range did not fit the opening of the old Modern Maid range. There was a 3/4 in gap to the rear of the range.
We contacted Parts Select for the JennAir factory Trim Kit. When we recieved it we found that the brackets used for the trim kit held the trim pice out with still about a 3/8 inch gap. The supplied brackets were about 3/4-7/8 in depth. So I built a jig from a 1ftx 2inx6in board, placed a 3/8 in square stock of steel, sliped the bracket under the steel and secured the steel to the board with 3/4 inch electr4ical staples. I then secured the bracket to the board using two wood screws. By this time the bracket was securily fastened around the 3/8 steel and to the board. I then took a hammer and beat the bracket until it was formed around the steel and the bracket had a new depth of 3/ inch. I then mesured the holes and center punched them in their original relative positions, drilled new 1/8 inch holes, and installed the new repaired brakets to the JennAir range. This all worked very well, though I will say it is imperitive that youmark the new screw holes very acuratly and use a center punch before drilling.
F 3 signal on display pad every time oven warmed up
Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.
Open oven door remove trays.. remove floor of oven...remove single screw holding heat shield... unscrew two srews holding ignitor and unclip plastic...done..reverse to install
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Oven door was not closing completely causing damage to Touch Pad Panel and cabinet door next to the oven.
Simple process. Pull the unit out approximately 6 inches. Remove 2 phillips head screws on the left side panel which is about 3 inches wide and runs from the top to the bottom of the unit. No need to remove the panel on the right. Two hex head screws hold each hinge in and are visible once the oven door is removed by opening the door about 20 degrees and lifting it off the hinges. Once the door is off, simply remove the two hex head/self tapping screws holding each hinge in place and remove the hinges from the rear of the front of the oven. Reverse the process to install the new hinges. Do not over tighten but remember they are self tapping and need just a bit of tightening until the hings feels solid. Replace the door by sliding it over the hinges and you're done.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
