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Oven took to long to preheat
I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.
Nothing mechanical was required! But the service was phenomenal. These are just a drop in part. I was thrilled that you had them, received them in one day without overnight charges, And the cost was very reasonable.
The oven did not heat, but the top burners worked fine.
1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.
Oven would not maintain temperature and not heat up correctly
Unplugged the Rang. Removed the oven door. Removed the lower cover for the Bottom heater. Removed the two screws that held the igniter to the burner. Went to back of oven to disconnect the igniter. removed the old igniter. Installed the new Igniter in the reverse order.
Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.
Diagnosed the issue by removing the bottom panel of the oven. (two little screws) Once the panel was out I turned the oven on with the door open to see what was happening.
Noticed that the heating element wasn't lighting up in order for the gas to ignite. Unplugged the oven and removed the heating element. Two screws hold the heating element in place. Removed those. Then, there is a panel on the back of the oven with one screw to remove. Once panel is removed you have easy access to the heating element connecting electric plug. Disconnect this plug by simply pulling apart.
Then, I was able to go back to the inside of the oven and slowly pull the heating element with plug out. The heating element had the part number on it. My oven is a Maytag which, is made by Whirlpool.
Went online to Whirlpool PartSelect and ordered my part. The part came in two days. Installed my new part and plugged in my oven to test the part. Part worked perfectly. Unplugged the oven and finished the installation process.
Igniter failed (open circuit). Without the igniter properly working, the control board would not open the gas balance.
Removed the lower base pan of the oven by unscrewing two phillips head screws. I then had access to the old igniter and removed that by removing the mounting screws (2 Phillips head screws). Continuity test revealed an open circuit. I simply replaced the old part with the new part, reversed the process and the oven was ready for use in less than 10 minutes.
I took the door off, then took the bottom out removed two screws, unplugged the old igniter and installed the new one. I turned on the oven and tested the new igniter and then replaced the bottom and oven door.
Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.
It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.
f1&f3 error> continuous beeping,oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode
I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.
There are two elements to look at, one on top (broil) and one on the bottom (bake). Same element but may have different connectors. Double check before ordering.
