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The ice maker stopped working
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
This would have been a less-than-5-minute repair except for one item. The water intake nossle was 180 degrees from the original part. As a result, the copper water inlet tube would not fit in the old space and still allow me to reattach the valve to the freezer chassie. I ended up leaving the valve hanging loose under the freezer. I spent most of my time trying to fit the valve into the old space.
Unplug freezer. Disconnect electrical connections (pull apart). Remove one screw holding the valve to the chassie. disconnect water inlet pipe and water outlet pipe from old valve.
Reconnect electrical connection to new valve. Reconnect in and out water hoses. Reconnect valve to chassie. Plug freezer back in. Finished
Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).
I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00
1st time ever attempting do-it-yourself repair, amazed at how easy it was even though there are no directions with the parts. I just examined the old parts to see how they fit together and that was easy, too!
Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.
freezer icing up no cold air circulation to refrigerator
unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
Refrigerator not defrosting properly. Evaporator froze on three different occasions.
I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.
Switch light didn't work; broken drawer cover hinge
I removed the switch assemble from the panel with a Swiss Army knife. Disconnected the two wires and reversed the process with the new switch. Not being all that handy, I assumed the job would be very involved, but was very pleased that it was nearly effortless. A less than 15 minute operation.
Removing the right side panel of the lower drawer was a slightly more involved, requiring the removal of 3-4 screws and replacing the inner workings of the temperature adjustment workings on the new panel. But it proved pretty simple and only required about 20 minutes start to finish.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!
Removed the top door hinge cover. Remover the four 12mm hex screws. Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support. Removed old door closure. Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed. Reversed the removal steps.
But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.
